Mention Laguna Beach almost anywhere in the world and you’ll see propaganda at work. It’s not the outsider’s fault, exactly, that images of palm trees, endless summers and paparazzi-tailed celebrities have become the definition of OC’s most famous enclave; in fact, shows like “Laguna Beach: The Real Orange County” and “The OC” bank on those assumptions. And to a certain extent, they’re true. Laguna Beach is an oasis-like destination fronting some of the world’s most desired beachfront real estate, and where the ocean almost always takes center stage; without it, the mirage fades for most. But not for those who know it best.

Beyond the much-traversed coastline (scenic as it may be) of Laguna Beach lies terrain that has captured the imagination of explorers and been the subject of artistic interpretation for centuries. Early 20th-century plein air greats like William Wendt and Edgar Payne regularly went beyond the crashing waves of Laguna’s coast and ventured into rugged canyon territory, where their Impressionistic paintings came to life with vibrant colors and haunting shadows – a different side to the famous beach town, but one that locals relish to this day, especially as a respite from the claustrophobic crowds that converge on the shoreline in summer. And when that time comes, as it inevitably does each year, locals will head to the canyon’s newest dining destination: Mark’s.

Mark’s might be new, but its owner, Mark DePalma, is no stranger to the restaurant business. A local favorite until 2003, the original Mark’s on Pacific Coast Highway closed despite a crowd of mourners, but in the six years since, DePalma has been plotting his return to the Laguna dining scene. It seems it was worth the wait.

Framed by the canyon’s towering cliffs and surrounded by a very locally-driven art and gastronomy culture (Laguna Culinary Arts is right next door and the Festival of Arts and Sawdust Art Festival grounds are within walking distance), the first impression of Mark’s is both welcoming and unpretentious, but there’s also the feeling that food here is taken seriously. There’s that seldom found combination of knowing that quality will not be taken for granted while also feeling that it’s entirely possible you know the people chatting at the bar, or perhaps just ran into your waitress at the post office. It’s so easy for high-profile restaurateurs like DePalma, who already have a loyal following and a good name, to fall into complacency and let the food suffer, but Mark’s, in fact, has done just the opposite: This restaurant has returned better than before.

As every good restaurateur knows, it’s all in the ingredients. For DePalma, that translates into fresh, carefully selected fare incorporated into his signature classic California cuisine with contemporary flare that earned him his name many years ago – before it was considered profitable to do so. It’s with these building blocks that DePalma entrusts Chef Martin Gonzales, who, from behind his exhibition kitchen, artfully churns out starters like the ahi tower and filet mignon tacos. The former – a light, refreshing mold of diced sashimi-grade ahi, fresh ginger, lime, tomato, and avocado – was exemplary in both texture and flavor, balanced with creamy avocado and tangy citrus. But it was the latter that stood out for originality. Don’t get me wrong – I’m all for taco-truck-style carne asada ensembles – but this refined version of soft corn tortillas filled with tender chunks of filet mignon and served with tomatillo salsa, sour cream and guacamole was superb.

If you’ve come this far at Mark’s, you’ll have noticed something else that makes this restaurant stand above the fray – and it has nothing to do with food. While restaurants all over the county have been slashing prices to entice customers to spend their hard-earned money on foie gras and stuffed quail, Mark’s hasn’t had to work quite as hard. Why? Because their prices were never inflated in the first place. Put simply, Mark’s is a good deal, especially when you consider that an evening of cocktails, starters, entrées, desserts, and after-dinner drinks for two might cost you in the ballpark of $120 (before tip). And lest you believe that no good deal goes unpunished, we will ask you to try Mark’s veal osso buco, a fall-off-the-bone veal shank sautéed and simmered with celery, carrots and onions and served with mushroom-marsala risotto. A fairly classic take on a traditional Italian dish, this is one of Gonzales’s stand-outs. Gonzales also brings his firm grasp on the basics to a perfectly marbled, coffee-rubbed rib eye, which hardly required a knife for cutting. A slice of blue cheese melted slightly over top, while a salad of baby arugula and tear drop tomatoes provided contrast and a bourbon-caramel sauce finished the dish.

Dessert at Mark’s is best ordered in advance. That’s code for “Order the chocolate soufflé… and make sure to get a side of Bailey’s ice cream.” The soufflé takes 20 minutes to prepare, so sip some whiskey if you’ve got time for it to bake into fluffy goodness, or let the server know when you order entrées. It’s a third of an hour you won’t want back, we promise. Or an entire meal, for that matter.